It’s no wonder that many plants in North Texas are struggling with the aftermath of the spring and summer weather that gave us more precipitation in four months than we had throughout all of 2014. High water tables and saturated soils during May and June contributed to an oxygen deficiency that caused stress and reduced growth to many plants and trees in the area, and now the same plants are distressed by the rapid jump in temperature over the last 8-9 weeks.
At the beginning of the season, we enjoyed 74-degree highs; then it jumped to 98- then 104-degree days, and it happened within a relatively short time period. Many plants that usually thrive during Texas summers, such as Nellie R. Stevens hollies and magnolia and vitex trees, struggled this year.
If you have plants whose leaves are turning brown at their leaf tips or edges, it’s an indication that they may be suffering from “moisture stress.” Just like a human body that can have circulatory problems pumping blood to the extremities, plant tissues that are the furthest away from plants’ roots, where water enters plants, are most vulnerable to not getting enough water. The problem also causes premature leaf drop. Inner and bottom leaves turn yellow, and then brown, and then they fall. It’s like autumn has arrived two months early.
According to Neil Sperry, publisher of GARDENS Magazine, “moisture stress” has many possible causes. (a) the plant got too dry one or more times; (b) the plant has suffered some type of root loss and can’t take water up normally; (c) too much fertilizer was applied around the roots; (d) the trunk or other plant tissue has become damaged and cannot function to carry the water from the roots to the leaves; or (e) the plant is growing in more sun than it can tolerate.
Counteracting the effects of “moisture stress” in plants is as wide-ranging as the possible causes. Primarily, plants should not ever get so dry they are to the point of severe wilting. It’s better to water deeply once a week than to water shallowly more often. Generally, watering deeply means the water soaks the soil at least 8″ down. So wait about a half hour after you’ve finished watering and then dig down in the soil with your trowel. If it’s not wet 8″ or more below the surface, you either haven’t watered enough or you watered too fast and the water ran off elsewhere. A gentle soak for an hour or 2 is better than puddling soil around your plants and moving on. Also, remove all weeds that compete for moisture, and mulch the beds to moderate the soil temperatures and conserve water as well.
Although many of our North Texas plants are “moisture stressed” from the four-month-long roller coaster weather ride, these landscaping tips can help you combat the damage. For advice or assistance managing your landscape, call Simpson Landscape at 972-578-1985 or request a quote online.